Surfing is the name for riding ocean waves on special boards. Did you know that surfing has been around for more than 200 years? At first the sport was rougher (粗野的) and harder than it is today.
For one thing the early surfboards were heavy. They weighed as much as 150 pounds. A surfer needed great strength (力量) just to get the board from the beach to the water! Also the
early surfers didn't ride standing up. They rode just lying on their stomachs. That was the only way to control the large boards.
Those surfers lived in the islands of Polynesia, in the South Pacific. In 1778 the surfers took the sport to Hawaii. There surfing quickly became popular. The beaches and waves of Hawaii are perfect for surfing.
In 1907 George Freeth was the first person to ride a wave in the United States. He surfed in Redondo Beach in California.
For years the sport of surfing spread slowly. In the 1950s surfing was known as a young people's sport because mostly young people seemed to enjoy it. In 1961 rules for surfers were written. The surfers themselves, along with some surfboard companies, made up the rules.
Today surfers are looked upon as sportsmen. Southern California is still the surfing center of the United States. Thousands of people surf there. Thousands more are fans of famous surfers. Surfing is here to stay.
Surfers must still be strong. To surf, a person should be able to swim well, both on top of and under the water. A surfer must also be able to float (漂浮) for a lo ng tim
首先初冲浪板困倦。他们重达150磅。冲浪需要伟大的strengthjust得到董事会从海滩到水!也
早期的冲浪者没有站起来。他们骑着躺在他们的胃。这是唯一的方法来控制大板。
那些冲浪者住在波利尼西亚的岛屿,在南太平洋。1778年,冲浪运动到夏威夷。有冲浪很快流行起来。夏威夷的沙滩和海浪是适合冲浪。
1907年,乔治·弗里斯是第一个骑波在美国。他在加州雷东多海滩上网。
多年来,冲浪运动慢慢蔓延。在1950年代被称为冲浪的年轻人的运动,因为大部分年轻人似乎喜欢它。1961年冲浪者的编写规则。冲浪本身,还有一些冲浪板公司,由规则。
今天冲浪视为运动员。加州南部仍然是美国冲浪的中心。成千上万的人上网。成千上万的球迷著名的冲浪者。冲浪是留在这里。
冲浪者仍然必须强大。冲浪,一个人应该能够游泳,上和下的水。一个冲浪者还必须能够浮罗ng蒂姆
